It all worked very well with lots of good birding from start to end resulting in
114 species with at least one new

bird every day during the week. The idea was to visit most of the major birding sites in the Donana area plus stops in the neighbourhood of Osuna on the outward and return journey whilst still finding time for Jenny to enjoy a non-birding day in Rio Tinto and make use of the hotel facilities at the Tierra Mar Gold in Matalascanas. Given also that we started out in warm sunshine and the weather continued sunny and dry the whole week with just a little cloud on the Wednesday, the company of Eric and Pat Lyon was a pleasure and we had rooms overlooking the beach with morning views of
Sanderling and a range of gulls, what more could one ask?
Fuente de Piedra being a barren waste there was no point stopping here on the outward journey so we made our first detour at Osuna to locate the small lagoons and minor roads near La Lantejuela. Whilst the lagoons here were also dry, we did strike lucky on the minor roads. The "whisper" was that both Little and Great Bustard might/have been in recent year

s seen in this area. Whilst we did not see the latter, we did see 9
Little Bustards and a small party of
Red-legged Partridge. Also in the area, lots of raptors, mainly
Red Kites and
Common Buzzards but also a single
Booted Eagle. Again, small groups of
Griffon Vultures were a pleasure and then we were seeing the first of very many
Ravens. The other bird of note was the
White Stork, seeing our first rising flock of at least 40 birds. Lots of
Stonechats,
Black Redstarts and
Corn Buntings on the fences as we rejoined the motorway and continued on towards the Donana National Park.
Rather than take the direct route to El Rocio, we followed the San Juan motorway turn which brought us in via the very small pueblo of Alfonso XIII and Isla Mayor. The extensive rice crop had been gathered in and a start made on ploughing in the stubble. This was where all the surface water was to be found and, along with it, the birds. Fields of
White Storks accompanied by a few
Black Storks, parties of
Black-winged Stilts and then a large group of
Glossy Ibis. And all the time hundreds of
Little Egrets,
Grey Herons (but also a single
Purple Heron) and gulls seeking an easy meal whilst, overhead, there was a continuous quartering of the fields by many
Marsh Harriers. A truly marvellous site but we had to push on to cross the Park, pick up the main road at El Ro

cio and travel on down to the coast to book in at our hotel. Crossing the park, every wet rice field seemed to hold some bird or other and, before long, we had seen a large flock of
Lapwing, loads of
Ringed and
Kentish Plovers,
Dunlin,
Little Stint, 7
Spoonbill, party of 30
Barn Swallows,
Hoopoes and a small gathering of
Greylag Geese. However, the real joy came as we approached El Rocio on the back road and saw what, at first, appeared to be a very pale Kestrel. A closer look after stopping the car revealed an absolutely gorgeous
Black-shouldered Kite. Wow!
Sunday was scheduled as the day to visit the reserves in the Donana and El Rocio itself. Like just about everywhere else, the lack of rain (unlike last year) had left the main lagoon at El Rocio completely devoid of any water and all that was to be seen were the occasional
Cattle Egrets feeding on the grubs disturbed by the numerous horses. Similarly, there was little water to be found at either the Acebron or La Rocina centres. However, there were birds to be seen. As always, the former was playing host to scores of
Magpies including good numbers of the
Azure-winged Magpie. The path also provided views of
Hoopoe and the a close sighting of a
Dartford Warbler before discovering one small area of water at the third hide. Here, amongst the resting
Mallards, our first
Teal and at least four feeding
Snipe, a
Little Grebe, a
Common Sandpiper and then the vivid blue flash of a
Kingfisher as he arrived to take up a feeding station immediately opposite our hide. Moving on to Acebron we managed to locate
Long-tailed Tit,
Firecrest, very many
Chiffchaff, a
Sardinian Warbler and then the bird of the day. About the only water available was a trickle in the stream that feed the area so, watching from the footbridge, we were happy to record
Chaffinch,
Blackcap and
Blue Tit until along came a very unexpected, but nevertheless very welcome, pair of female
Bullfinches. The first Bullfinch I have seen this far south in Spain.
Monday was set aside for our first visit to the Odiel Marshes on the western side of Huelva. Last year it was fantastic and this year was to prove equally so. And even better, we arrived relatively early in the morning before high tide. Indeed, our second visit was planned for the following Friday to coincide with a midday low tide so giving an even better opportunity for wader watching. Being a national holiday, the visitors centre on entering the central spit was closed so enabling us to be the first to look over the neighbouring fresh water pool. We were not to be disappointed in either quantity or quality.
Little and
Black-necked Grebe,
Moorhen and
Coot,
Mallard,
Gadwall,
Teal,
Pintail,
Shoveler and
Pochard busy feeding whilst
Cetti's Warbler,
Chiffchaff and
Zitting Cisticola moved around the fringes. Immediately opposite were large numbers of
Flamingo,
Lesser Black-backed and
Yellow-legged Gulls plus reasonably-sized groups of both B
lack-headed Gull and B
lack-winged Stilts.
A drive along the spit with regular stops produced a very wide range of waders, some in great numbers, includin

g the following:
Whimbrel,
Curlew,
Redshank,
Spotted Redshank,
Greenshank,
Common Sandpiper,
Ringed and
Kentish Plover,
Oystercatcher,
Turnstone,
Dunlin,
Little Stint and
Sanderling. Also about were many
Marsh Harriers,
Buzzards,
Kestrels,
Stonechats and a small party of
Long-tailed Tits. Needless to say, there were
White Storks,
Little Egrets and
Grey Herons everywhere plus a few
Spoonbills and a number of
Cormorants. Indeed, whilst Eric and I were otherwise engaged on the bridge over the river, the wives managed to see a
Kingfisher from the (closed) Visitors' Centre.
Tuesday was the "cultural visit" to Rio Tinto and a visit to the mine, railway and fabulous museum. However, the extra height did give us the opportunity to see a
Blue Rock Thrush, a small party of the resident
Crag Martins and then a
Black Vulture moving across with a small party of
Griffons. Whilst upstairs in Casa 21, former home to the Mines' Chief Engineer and now restored as a public exhibit, we looked out in time to see a beautiful
Nuthatch arrive and take up residence in the tree immediately outside the bedroom window.
On Wednesday the girls stayed behind for a rest whilst Eric and I took to
the Donana park proper, complete with its 40+ km track circumnavigation to the Jose Valverde Centre. The Park itself provided good numbers of raptors including Kestrel, Marsh Harrier, Red Kite and Common Buzzard but the real beauties were the male Hen Harrier which rose from a ditch immediately in front of us and a single Spanish Imperial Eagle soaring high and in, relatively, close proximity of a half-dozen Griffon Vulure. Similarly, we must not forget the sighting of "our" Black-shouldered Kite on the same electricity cable on both the outward and return journeys.
All the usual larger water birds were seen and, at the Jose Valverde Centre, we were also able to see close views of Purple Swamphen and the arrival of 4 Cranes. Many charms of Goldfinches were seen along with Corn Bunting, Crested Lark, Black Redstart, Stonechat, Serin, Greenfinch, Linnet and a Tree Sparrow.
A second visit to the Acebron Centre did not find any more Bullfinches. Indeed, it seemed to find almost nothing at all!
Thursday was our chance to visit the Lagunas de Palos on the Mazagon

- Huelva road. We eventually found a place to park the car and fight our way to the water's edge to be well-rewarded with a couple of
Purple Swamphen, 3
Great Crested Grebes, a number of
Little Grebe and, especially delightful, at least 5
Squacco Heron. Also present were a handful of
Gadwall. The second pool proved devoid of birds so we pressed on to the ponds on the far west of the Province before crossing the border into Portugal. The Laguna de El Portil was completely dry and the river mouth of the Rio Piedras west of El Rompido produced a few resting
Cormorants and 4
Sandwich Tern. Once in Portugal, we made our way to the small, but beautiful, village of Cacela Velha set on a small hill immediately in front of the beach. From here we had a lovely view of the bird-life below
Great White Egret,
Heron,
Grey Plover,
Kentish Plover, a single
Little Ringed Plover,
Redshank,
Black and
Bar-tailed Godwits,
Greenshank,
Green Sandpiper,
Snipe,
Dunlin,
White Stork,
Oystercatcher and
Spoonbill amongst others. On the banks were
Meadow Pipit,
Zitting Cisticola,
Stonechat and
White Wagtail whilst, above,
Common Buzzards made lazy circles in the sky (to quote from Rogers and Hammerstein's "Oklahoma") Finally, calling in at Ayamonte on the Guadiana estuary to visit the Isla del Moral, the most westerly site in southern Sp

ain, we managed to record a
Common Tern and met the only other birders we were to see during the whole week. Spanish - No. British, Dutch or German - No. A young couple who had travelled from Lithuania by Ryanair (that's a forgettable experience to start with!) via Stansted to spend ten days in Andalucia using Andy Paterson's "Where to Watch Birds in Southern and Western Spain" as both their "Guide and Bible." As they told us, there are no bird books in Lithuania so all their knowledge was in English; it rather made us feel a little ashamed if not embarrassed.
Friday it was back to the Odiel Marshes for a full day without any distraction on the way. As with the previo

us visit, there were scores of waders and larger water birds plus the usual ducks on the small fresh water pool. Inside the Centre grounds opposite the
Chiffchaff were busy feeding along with a
Robin and the
White Wagtails. The small pool held a good number of
Gadwall seeking shelter from the more exposed pool and a single
Purple Swamphen was resting in the reeds at least a metre off the ground. In addition to the close sighting of another
Grey Plover, there were also close views of
Bar-tailed Godwits,
Oystercatchers and
Southern Grey Shrikes. Finally, another two new birds for the week. First a magnificent
Osprey and then, feeding amongst a mixed flock of
House and
Tree Sparrows and a few
Meadow Pipits, a number of
Spanish Sparrows.
And so we set off for home on
Saturday morning, calling first at the rice fields around Isla Mayor and then back to the steppes and the minor road to the the south-west of La Lantejuela near Osuna. The former turned out quite disappointing as all bar one of the
Glossy Ibis had moved away. However, we did manage to record at least a dozen feeding
Black Stork and the feeding
Little Egrets and
Heron also contained a single
Great White Egret amidst their number. Also, we had another close look at the
Black-shouldered Kite (same location as before) as we entered the Park proper and there was also the regular supply of
Red Kite,
Common Buzzard,
Marsh Harrier and
Kestrel.
It was at our last stop that the week was finally brought to a triumphant conclusion with two new birds for the week. First we stopped to see a large flock of
Lapwing then, a little further along the road. we encountered an enormous flock of Spotless Starling totalling well in excess of a thousand birds. Whilst scoping the far distance to look for the bird that came last, we suddenly realised that many of the nearer starlings were bright and shiny and full of spots; yes,
Common Starlings to accompany our resident
Spotless Starling variety. Meanwhile, Eric had found his small flock of "sheep", way off in the distance. The rumour was correct,
Great Bustards do use these fields to rest and over-winter. But how to get a closer view of the 9 birds now seen by us all? Fortunately, with the building of the new high speed railway, the level crossings have been replaced by very steep and high over-bridges. So, off to the nearby bridge which, despite the increasingly strong wind, gave us height advantage, if not the best photographic conditions, to scope, what we now could count, the twelve feeding birds. Even at about 800 metres, neck markings could be distinguished and the birds appreciated. What a way to end a magnificent week and whet the appetite for more!
More photographs on the website (www.birdingaxarquia.weebly.com)Birds seen: Little Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, Black-necked Grebe, Cormorant, Squacco Herron, Cattle Egret, Little egret, Great White Egret, Grey Heron, purple Heron, Black Stork, White Stork, Glossy Ibis, Spoonbill, Flamingo.
Greylag Goose, Gadwall, Teal, Mallard, Pintail, Shoveler, Pochard.
Black-shouldered Kite, Red Kite, Griffon Vulture, Black Vulture,MarshHarrier, Hen Harrier, Buzzard, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Booted Eagle, Osprey, Kestrel.
Red-legged Partridge, Moorhen, Purple Swamphen, Coot, Crane, Little Bustard, Great Bustard.
Oystercatcher, Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed Plover, Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Grey Plover, Lapwing, Sanderling, Little Stint, Dunlin, Snipe, Black-tailed Godwit, Bar-tailed Godwit, Whimbrel, Curlew, Spotted Redshank, Redshank, Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Turnstone.
Black-headed Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Yellow-legged Gull, Sandwich Tern, Common Tern. Rock Dove, Wood Pigeon, Collared Dove.
Kingfisher, Hoopoe.
Calandra Lark, Crested lark, Thekla Lark, Skylark, Crag Martin, Barn Swallow, Meadow Pipit, Grey Wagtail, White Wagtail, Robin, Black Redstart, Stonechat, Blue Rock Thrush, Blackbird, Cetti's warbler, Zitting Cisticola, Dartford Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Blackcap, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff, Firecrest, Long-tailed Tit, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Woodchat Shrike, Southern Grey Shrike.
Azure-winged Magpie, Magpie, Jackdaw, Raven.
Starling, Spotless Starling.
House Sparrow, Spanish Sparrow, Tree Sparrow, Chaffinch, Serin, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Linnet, Bullfinch, Corn Bunting.